Heresy Minotaur "Manbane", CSM Terminator Lord with lightning claws

On Saturday I went to Hammerhead in Nottinghamshire for the first time and spent a lot of money on little plastic and metal men. Yesterday I spent most of the day painting this miniature from Heresy, for use in our Heroscape games. I might fiddle with the rust and his nose a bit more, but he is mostly finished. I want to get on to painting Heresy Dr Who miniatures next to go with the Daleks.

The tiles were made from plasticard.

I also gave this fella a lick of paint. As he was a bad cast, I went with the idea that it was the corroded suit of a Nurgle follower. I tried a bronze verdigris colour scheme, it was an experiment more than anything.

Daleks, Greenskins and bits and bobs

Several things that have been in need of finishing off for a long time now.

Some Daleks from the DR Who magazine.

They are dirt cheap, probably about 12p each. They do require some cleanup as they aren't as finely made as regular miniatures, but they do scale up nicely with 28mm minis and I am very happy with them.

Some Gretchen, from Games Workshop. I bought these because I wanted to try casting more small, single piece models with the Oyumaru. 

While the results from attempting to cast were naff (my fault, didn't do it properly), but good enough to get an extra model and an interesting trampled figure on one of the bases;

At Christmas I received a pack of the OOP plastic Chaos Warriors, so the resin cast with the warped face got a new head.

I had a go at giving a space marine a less rounded look. I was trying to make something in power armour, but wasn't a space marine. Like a renegade, or a mercenary or something.

Finally, I finished off the Space Marine Captain I had left over from the last Black Reach set. His face looks darker than it should because there's a big annoying shadow across his face.

Casting miniatures using oyumaru mould and milliput

Still playing with the Oyumaru when I get the chance. Using the resin takes up a lot of room and can be smelly and messy, so I have been using milliput. Milliput is a 2 part epoxy putty, like games workshop’s green stuff, but cheaper. It is much easier to control than resin so I didn’t use the lego press mould  I use for resin casts. I just used my hands. However, if I was to do it again, I would use the lego mould – because there were a LOT of faults.

Results so far:

Gretchin and some Necromunda weapon casts

Chaos lord components cast individually before assembly

Unlike the strong resin, Milliput is too brittle for models with fine parts. Some of the big guy’s claws and spiky bits have already shattered. Similarly, the three gretchin have eroded significantly just from handling; their pointy noses aren’t strong enough. SO... I won’t rely on milliput for sharp bits in future. I might still use it to cast a full miniature though, as long as it’s a solid piece, or a part that isn’t an extremity ( torsos and legs should be fine). 

Casting miniatures with oyumaru and resin

Oyumaru is a rubbery plastic material that has been the subject of a lot of chatter among modellers lately. It's a great resource for casting. When placed in hot water it becomes soft and pliable, so that it can be wrapped around a miniature. After a few moments it cools to room temperature, becoming firm again (about as tough as rubber). Filling this mould with resin or milliput and waiting a short while rewards you with a copy as good as your casting skills - and most important of all - you can then reheat and reuse the oyumaru to start the process all over again, instead of filling your garage with boxfuls of casts.

Original miniature for comparison. I chose a model that is 'flat' because it would be easiest to cut around. Also, I chose a metal mini because it wouldn't suffer as badly as a plastic one if clumsily nicked during the 'cutting out' stage. It also has no parts of the model that my knife cannot reach when cutting out (ie; no gap between her legs).

After five minutes in freshly boiled water, I pressed the oyumaru over the miniature. I made sure the oyumaru cast was square so that it would fit into the lego case I used later. Many people also add a single-pip lego block to a corner or two of their moulds to keep the two pieces correctly aligned in the casting stage. I'll do this in future.

I did not use a release agent, as oyumaru does not stick to resin. Another note; heat generated by the curing resin isn't hot enough to warp the detail of the oyumaru mould.

When it dried, I cut around the edge of the miniature with a scalpel to free it.

I lay both sides of the cast open and filled them with resin before it started to get thick. In total, I used a teaspoon of material for the one miniature - half a teaspoon from bottle a, and half from bottle b. Use two separate teaspoons! I keep a couple of little 'bits' moulds nearby so I can put the leftover mixed resin to good use. I watched the resin until it looked like treacle and then pressed them together and put them in the lego mould case (see next stage).

When filling larger moulds be sure to fill the deepest recesses of the mould first - otherwise, air bubbles may form. I used Smooth-Cast 300; it costs slightly more, but it has the slowest curing time of the resins I could find. This is important because it allows precious time before it becomes too viscous for bubbles to escape.

Sitting snug inside the lego mould case, flat on the top and on the bottom. Inside, the resin would have been oozing (slowly) into places I didn't want it to, so I needed to fix it in place for the remaining 3 minutes.

I held down this block reasonably firmly for about 3 minutes while the resin set. Then left it alone and I gave the miniature another 10 minutes curing time. watch the excess resin in your mixing pot - so you can get a clue as to the condition of the resin inside your mould.

After ten minutes, I popped the oyumaru mould out of the lego case, and carefully opened it up. I was careful to treat the sword gently as I have heard stories about the fragile nature of resin, but at this stage the miniature still had some flex to it. No problems came about from not using a release agent.

The model feels light and cheap to hold, even moreso than plastic. The detail is near perfect - the little pips on the armour are there when I compare it to the original. Before painting a resin model, I'll need to wash it - it 'sweats' for a while. Sadly, I won't be painting this one, because I failed to check how carefully I'd made the mould, and messed up her face (air bubble). Check your mould!

Overall, I am very pleased with how easy it was to use oyumaru and resin. This was my first attempt at using a lego box to hold the mould and keep it firmly fixed, and I'd highly recommend it - using your hands to hold it all in place just doesn't do the trick.